Close
Photo: Eric Wolfinger
Active Time:40 minsTotal Time:50 minsServings:4Jump to Nutrition Facts
Active Time:40 minsTotal Time:50 minsServings:4
Active Time:40 mins
Active Time:
40 mins
Total Time:50 mins
Total Time:
50 mins
Servings:4
Servings:
4
Jump to Nutrition Facts
Jump to recipe
As a young child, I had no idea that my family fit firmly into the lower-income class category. Nearly everyone in our neighborhood seemed the same—of Latin descent, jammed into rows of deteriorating 1950s Los Angeles courtyard apartments. Even my mostly secondhand wardrobe and weekly trips to the corner laundromat in a grocery cart served as no clue. All I knew was that I belonged. And that every night as the sun set—a collective call for dinner echoing out into the streets—I’d join all the other neighborhood kids as we scattered to our homes and found comfort in a hot meal waiting at the table, even if not much more than potatoes.
This core memory floods my mind every time I eat tacos de papa, or potato tacos. They’re much what they sound like: corn tortillas stuffed with a mashed potato filling and fried until golden. I’ve eaten and made them more times than I can count. With my abuela, her spotted hands immune to the scorching heat of the comal as she flipped each tortilla—because she would never warm them in a microwave like I do. With my children, whose playful approach always brings laughter to our kitchen. And at various taquerias throughout my travels in Mexico, where the smell of freshly made tortillas and salsas permeates the air.
It wasn’t until some point later in life that I figured out that feeding a family of five on a single income required creativity in the kitchen, and that my parents did the best with what they had and what they learned from their own upbringings. What never crossed my mind, though, was the question of the origins of this particular dish. Fascinated with history, including my own Mexican heritage, I set out to find an answer. Not surprisingly, my journey began with potatoes.
These foreign foods and religious beliefs ultimately transformed the native diet, giving birth to recipes that were an amalgam of cultures, while still relying on what was readily accessible. Mexico may be home to nearly 6,000 miles of coastline and hundreds of rivers and lakes, but for those unable to access fish, vegetarian versions of traditional dishes that typically featured some type of animal meat were likely the only option during observances like Lent. Still, they wouldn’t be far from what indigenous peoples had already been eating for thousands of years—including maize tortillas stuffed with native plant foods like beans, squash and chiles.
In the end, this was as close to the origins of potato tacos that I could trace. Even after my travels throughout Mexico and picking the minds of my family—on both sides of the border—their exact birthplace remains unknown, to me, at least. But what I do know for certain is that when I’m eating them, I still feel like I belong to something. They hold not only my story, but also centuries of human history.
Eric Wolfinger
Cook Mode(Keep screen awake)Ingredients4mediumyellow potatoes4plum tomatoes1serranoorjalapeño pepper1teaspoondried oreganoPinch of salt plus 1/2 teaspoon, divided8corn tortillas1cupavocado oilorcanola oil2cupsvery thinly sliced iceberg lettuce½cuproughly chopped fresh cilantro½cupcrumbled cotija cheese (see Tip)½cupMexican crema (see Tip)orsour cream1largeripe avocado, sliced
Cook Mode(Keep screen awake)
Ingredients
4mediumyellow potatoes
4plum tomatoes
1serranoorjalapeño pepper
1teaspoondried oregano
Pinch of salt plus 1/2 teaspoon, divided
8corn tortillas
1cupavocado oilorcanola oil
2cupsvery thinly sliced iceberg lettuce
½cuproughly chopped fresh cilantro
½cupcrumbled cotija cheese (see Tip)
½cupMexican crema (see Tip)orsour cream
1largeripe avocado, sliced
Directions
Place potatoes in a large saucepan and cover with cold water. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to maintain a simmer. Cook until a paring knife easily slides through the center, 22 to 25 minutes.
Meanwhile, place tomatoes and serrano (or jalapeño) in a medium saucepan with 4 cups water. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to maintain a simmer; cook until the tomatoes begin to peel and yield to slight pressure from tongs, 5 to 7 minutes. (You want them to retain some firmness but not become overly soft.)
Remove the stem from the chile. Carefully transfer the tomatoes and chile to a blender (reserve the cooking water). Pulse 2 to 3 times. Add oregano and a pinch of salt; pulse until the tomatoes and chile are finely chopped, 2 to 3 more times. (If you prefer a thinner sauce, add the cooking water, 1 tablespoon at a time until it reaches the desired consistency.)
Drain the potatoes and carefully remove the skins, if desired. Transfer the potatoes to a medium bowl; add the remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt. Coarsely mash, leaving small chunks intact.
Wrap tortillas in damp paper towels and microwave on High for 30 seconds. Keep wrapped and warm until ready to use.
Heat oil in a medium skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering (a small piece of tortilla placed in the hot oil will bubble and float when the oil is ready).
Fry half of the tacos, carefully flipping once, until golden brown, about 1 minute per side. Transfer to a paper-towel-lined plate. Repeat with the remaining tacos.
Carefully remove the toothpicks from the tacos. Serve immediately with the salsa, lettuce, cilantro, cheese, crema (or sour cream) and avocado.
To make ahead
Refrigerate salsa (Steps 2-3) airtight for up to 4 days.
Tip
Cotija cheeseis a crumbly, low-moisture Mexican cheese. Look for it in the specialty cheese section of most grocery stores.Mexican crema, or Mexican cream, is similar to sour cream but has a slightly higher fat content, is less sour and has a thinner consistency. Look for it in the dairy section or with other dips in most grocery stores.
Originally appeared: EatingWell.com, September 2022
Rate ItPrint
Nutrition Facts(per serving)539Calories32gFat57gCarbs11gProtein
Nutrition Facts(per serving)
- Daily Values (DVs) are the recommended amounts of nutrients to consume each day. Percent Daily Value (%DV) found on nutrition labels tells you how much a serving of a particular food or recipe contributes to each of those total recommended amounts. Per the Food and Drug Administration (FDA), the daily value is based on a standard 2,000 calorie diet. Depending on your calorie needs or if you have a health condition, you may need more or less of particular nutrients. (For example, it’s recommended that people following a heart-healthy diet eat less sodium on a daily basis compared to those following a standard diet.)
(-) Information is not currently available for this nutrient. If you are following a special diet for medical reasons, be sure to consult with your primary care provider or a registered dietitian to better understand your personal nutrition needs.
